Highcross Leicester celebrated its first birthday on 4 September 2009, marking a year in which the retail and foodservice market in the city centre has changed beyond recognition.

When Coverpoint first started work on the foodservice strategy for the centre in 2004, the casual dining market in Leicester was thin on the ground, with only nine recognisable brand fascias trading. There was no clustering of units, no destinational appeal and no ‘heart’ to foodservice in the city.

That changed in late 2008 with the grand opening of the extended Shires, renamed Highcross, and lettable space was nearly doubled to over a million sq ft. As part of the development a restaurant quarter was delivered, focused around a newly created public space, St Peter’s Square, and 12 foodservice units, the majority of which were new entrants to the city, commenced trading. The rest, they say, is history.

We revisited Highcross to review the units now that trading levels and business patterns had settled. Expectations, for the majority of operators, had been greatly exceeded and, on the day visited, the summer sun certainly made for a bustling and vibrant atmosphere, particularly for those units with external terrace seating.

We decided to select Memsaab from the various food types on offer for two reasons. Firstly, the original building was derelict and difficult to envisage as operationally viable due to its split levels, and secondly, to dispel the myth that Indian restaurants don’t work in shopping centres.

The building is stunning, with the seating areas being divided into intimate alcoves, private dining, a 10-seat ‘Chef’s Table’, conservatory seating and a roof top alfresco dining area. The food selected, a duo of samosas to start (£4.75) and lamb palak, pilau rice and tandoori naan for main course (£12.90), washed down with two Cobra beers, was authentic, tasty and served by attentive and knowledgeable staff.

Memsaab certainly provides a complementary offer to the existing foodservice offers, and trades well alongside the ‘high street’ brands in Highcross. We believe that operators will continue to trade well in the restaurant quarter and two further units are due to open to further add to the overall mix.

Food ★ ★ ★ ★ ✩

Service ★ ★ ★ ★ ★

Value ★ ★ ★ ★ ✩